J9 Ecosse – Durness > Reay

Ptit dèj avec les anglais crazy crazy. Je me prépare à un parcours pas piqué des moutons : 97km et 1500m de dénivelé. Le soleil est là et le vent non ! Premièèèère journée de vrai beau temps ! Juste avec ce qu’il faut de nuages pour donner du relief au…relief et des niveaux aux couleurs. La route entre Durness est un enchaînement grandiose de plages à sable blanc, d’eau turquoise, de falaises, de détours et contours autour de Lochs, de reflets de monts enneigés, d’herbe fluo…N’en jetez plus, gardez tout ! Je m’arrête sans cesse pour admirer ces cartes postales. Vers midi, j’arrive à Tongue, on s’en délecte. Et le hasard n’existant pas : les 2 anglais crazy crazy aussi ! On s’offre un lunch de roi avec main course de succulentes langoustines locales et un banofee en dessert. On se quitte -vraiment- après avoir chanté des morceaux de rock, et révélation : même les anglais chantent en yaourt les morceaux en anglais ! (Enfin en yogourt). La route reste très belle jusqu’à Betty hill la bien nommée par son raidillon puis plus quelconque. Pendant ce temps-là, mes genoux font des leurs et j’arrive à Reay sur les rotules…douloureuses. Peter, du réseau de cyclistes warmshowers m’accueille chez lui par des petits papiers comme un jeu de piste. Sa maison est un gros bordel, un peu comme à l’âge d’or poussiéreux de mon appartement à Puteaux. Peu après mon entrée, il arrive, c’est un écossais un peu ours mais généreux. Il entreprend de faire un curry pendant que je m’active à mon fameux fondant au chocolat. Le curry est délicieux, mon fondant dégueu pour la première fois…mais je sais pourquoi c’est déjà ça. Il ne m’en tient pas rigueur, apprécie le geste et me parle de ses aventures à vélo dans le monde entier… ça fait rêver et ça interroge : pourquoi se fixer ensuite dans un coin si froid et pluvieux après avoir goûté à tant de lieux où la douceur de vivre met en joie ? On se finit -car j’ai déjà bu beaucoup de vin chilien- avec un whisky australien très parfumé. Je m’effondre dans ma chambre qui ressemble à un chalet avec lambris et grosses dalles en schiste irrégulières.

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