J5 Ecosse – Ullapool > Lochinver

Départ traînant car journée s’annonçant plus cool. A 9h30, me voilà affrontant une route single track (1 seule voie) « rollercoaster » (= montagnes russes). La pluie battante et le vent me lacèrent le visage…pas une partie de plaisir malgré un beau paysage tout en plans superposés. L’anglais est parti après moi mais ne me rattrape pas car je suis monté sur ressorts ce matin, je veux sortir de cette tempête presto ! A peine le temps d’engloutir en 2 bouchées une barre aux pommes séchées mais déjà humides que j’enfourche à nouveau ma monture. J’arrive tôt à mon point de destination : Lochinver. Je vadrouille un peu dans le village portuaire -rapide car y qu’une rue qui longe la mer glagla (6 degrés paraît-il)-, je fais un benchmarking des restos/pub -facile y en a que 2 ouverts sur 4 en tout- puis j’en choisis un avec vue sur le port et sur un cerf qui broute devant comme un animal domestique. Je vous raconterai une autre fois comme une biche m’a harcelée pour manger ma banane ! Mon pote anglais arrive, on dèj : soupe à la tomate, haddock – salade, gâteau muesli-framboise. On se quitte pour de bon puis je roule chez la famille qui m’accueille pour la nuit (le fameux réseau warmshowers). Une maison en bois, un panneau indiquant « interdit aux gens stupides », des objets partout comme un cabinet de curiosités, 3 chats au moins, 2 chiens…le ton est donné : atypique. Je leur fait mon fameux fondant au choc de choc, elle cuisine un chili qu’on boit avec du vin du Chili, une musique folk douce flotte, que du bonheur ! On parle des Cevennes car ils sont allés à Florac ! Le petit garçon va chercher des fleurs comestibles dehors pour décorer le gâteau. On parle de pêche car Stewart est fishing guide : y a un atelier de fabrication de mouches dans un coin du salon, on s’insurge sur le green washing ! Il m’apprend à déguster un bon whisky et me confie que la vie est dure ici et les gens rudes… On touche du doigt l’intime.

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