J7 Ecosse – Kinlochbervie > Durness

J’ai attendu que le ciel s’assombrisse mais la nuit est restée claire, j’ai attendu de voir les étoiles mais elle ne sont venues, j’ai attendu le sommeil mais le vent faisait claquer les sangles maintenant ma frêle caravane…il n’est -presque- pas venu. Au matin, j’ai fait la vaisselle dans l’herbe glacée et mis mes vêtements frissonnants. Le soleil, lui, est venu ! Miracle ! Premier jour où la lumière fut. Projecteur dessinant les contours et les contrastes, l’Ecosse est apparu plus belle : jour/nuit. Eau grise/eau turquoise. Noir terne/noir luisant. J’ai emprunté un chemin de vtt assez technique avec des passages pour moutons partout, j’ai dû jouer à saute-mouton. La baie de Sand Wood était là, sous mes yeux remplis de couleurs, un endroit amazing ! Grandes étendues d’herbes vertes rasées de près ouvrant la voie à un tapis de grandes dunes parsemées de hautes tiges beiges, ravissant ton sur ton. Au delà roulaient des pierres sombres et un sable presque blanc écrin d’une mer bleu-translucide. Encadrement assuré par des montagnes abruptes, taillées par le vent. Seul, j’avais l’impression de débouler dans un lieu surréel. La remontée face au vent a sonné le temps de la réalité. Encore plein d’images, je me suis élancé vers ma prochaine destination : Durness. L’elancement s’est mué en envol, vent arrière me propulsant. Les voitures ne parvenaient plus à me dépasser. Le paysage est devenu éclatant avec le soleil, panorama qui s’étirait loin, loin. Un Loch se mélangeant à la mer était l’autre ravissement du jour : une berge en prairie, l’autre en montagne plus arides, et au milieu des langues de sables jouant au séparateur du spectre. Je suis arrivé tôt à Durness à l’auberge de jeunesse. J’y ai fait la rencontre de Julie, une jeune retraitée fringante du Yorkshire (la région, pas le chien). Toute en malice, elle se baladait seule dans son mini-van en quête de découvertes. Elle avait vécu 1 an à Tarascon con. Elle me proposa de partager un plat de pâtes au saumon fumé + poireaux + crème, délicieusement mijoté, moi jouant au commis de cuisine. Empruntant son van, nous allâmes voir le coucher de soleil sur une jolie plage non loin prenant au passage une québécoise. Il y eut un matin ensoleillé, il y eut un soir ensoleillé par Julie.

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