J3 Ecosse – Talladale > Gairloch – 70 km

70km avec détours et contours.

Partant ventre plein de Talladale qui porte mal son nom, j’ai faim de soleil…mais il ne vient toujours pas. Je longe le très beau Loch Maree dont les reflets gris sur gris sont d’un bel effet ton sur ton. Je m’aventure sur une route à la végétation assez luxuriante qui est censée arriver à une plage de sable rose et à un petit salon de thé croquignolet…mais foin de rose et de thé ! La plage est introuvable et la gargotte fermée… Je rebrousse chemin et me dirige vers Gairloch, charmant port de pêche qui s’étire sur quelques km. Je croise un Bouddha de plage et avale une soupe vegie dans un resto très bobo qui mélange décos montagnardes, ayurveda et scones. Je finis par un gâteau à la passion sans passion. Le temps vire encore plus, je fais une variante prolongation car l’auberge de jeunesse n’ouvre qu’à 17h. Je vais jusqu’au bout de la côte par une route étroite en tapis russe parsemée de rares maisons et moutons frissonnants. Des plages et des falaises se découpent tel Etretat sans le côté surfait d’un normand s’en gargarisant. J’ai l’impression d’être seul au bout du monde, funambule sur une langue de bruyère desséchée par trop de vent et brûlée par trop de pluie. J’arrive à la lueur de la fin : le phare. Je reviens mais cette fois vent de face, froid mordant et griffé de pluie. J’arrive à l’auberge qui se dresse face à la mer, toute proprette, rangée avec un lounge panoramique : lieu idéal pour se poser avec un bouquin d’Hemingway. Mais douche first ! Puis je savoure une bière locale au son du ressac et goûte aux conseils d’un cycliste roué aux Highlands. Petits plaisirs minuscules…Manque plus qu’un vieux whisky.

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