J6 Ecosse – Lochinver > Kinlochbervie

Vers 4h du mat’, une lumière pâle en raies à travers un store me réveille : c’est déjà l’aube ici ! Au petit dèj, je goûte les délicieux biscuits au chocolat type short bread de Monika. Je me prépare mollement : difficile de quitter cette famille attachante. On promet de s’échanger nos recettes. La route est vraiment dure, yoyo incessant entre montées raides et descentes grisantes. Des Loch de partout et la mer en toile de fond souvent. Des montagnes sombres qui se confondent avec le ciel…sombre. Et toujours cette fragrance de noix de coco des ajoncs jaunes fluo. Ferme les yeux, tu te crois en Thaïlande, la chaleur en moins ! De Dissonance cognitive en perte de repères, l’Ecosse me joue des tours. Je grelotte en m’arrêtant -ou plutôt l’inverse- en bord de route dans une alimentation-café. Manque de pot, faut manger dehors, avec jolie vue néanmoins. Je prends cup of tea chargée lait+sucre, du magret de canard local fumé excellent, un pain aux graines tout chaud et un gouda au cumin local aussi. Je repars assez vite car le thé brûlant ne compense pas ma chute de température abyssale. Re-route hard, un peu de lassitude et de haut le coeur à faire haut-bas permanent. J’arrive à Scourie, je bois un café serré et un gâteau au citron moyen. Je me remotive pour les 23 derniers km ! La route est plus large, bien bitumée, ça va un peu plus vite. Croyant être arrivé, je relis les instructions du airbnb et non ! Encore 3 km, ça n’en finit pas… Quelques descentes bien raides à 15% qu’il faudra remonter demain… J’arrive ! Je loge dans une petite caravane douillette perchée face à une magnifique baie. Bon, pas de douche ni d’électricité mais c’est sympa : une petite bouteille de proseco m’attend ainsi que des fruits et des victuailles dans le placard, youpi ! Je vais pouvoir cuisiner. Voulant me faire un café, le gaz s’éteint : je dois changer la capsule, je l’insére mal et manque de foutre le feu avec grandes flammes qui sortent de partout, je sens le cochon grillé poils brûlés. Au menu ce soir : pates avec sauce tomate mijotée au thon, gouda, fruits, biscuits…et proseco ! Le vent devient hyper violent, la pluie revient et la caravane gémit, couinements de tôles, un agneau égaré bêle sans fin…et comme un miracle, le soleil apparaît sur la baie, il me réchauffe. Je descends sur la plage agitée : le sunset est un cadeau divin. Avant de m’endormir, j’écoute un podcast passionnant de Michel Onfray : « le christianisme, un chamanisme solaire ». Ca parle du cosmos, ça tombe bien, les étoiles font leur apparition.

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